Everything you need to know about the Van Cleef Alhambra

What is the Van Cleef Alhambra?

Just over 60 years after Van Cleef & Arpels was established on Place des Vendôme in Paris in 1906, the esteemed jewellery house launched its first Alhambra long necklace. Introduced by Jacques Arpels, nephew of founders Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, the design resembles a four-leaf clover and is named for the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. One of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture in the world, the palace is known for its exquisite quatrefoil details on its windows, facade panelling, fountains and more.

Since the first Alhambra long necklace, Van Cleef and Arpels has produced pendants, bracelets, rings, watches, earrings featuring the four-lobed, geometric motif, continuously evolving the design with new materials, styles and functionalities. The Alhambra collection is renowned for its exceptional stone selection and rich colour palette.

What does the Van Cleef Alhambra symbolise?

Since its onset, Van Cleef and Arpels has built a reputation for innovative jewellery that responds to changing social tides. Following World War II, the house leaned into natural forms and motifs including birds, flowers, fruits and insects, as emblems of rebirth.

When the 1960s ushered in an age of youthful free-spiritness and ‘flower power’ aesthetics, VCA found a new symbol in the clover-shaped Alhambra. The motif evoked freedom and optimism. Jacques Arpels had a well-known obsession with luck, often picking four-leaf clovers in the backyard of his house in Germigny-l’Évêque.

What are the key features of the Alhambra?

Each Alhambra jewel moves through about fifteen stages, beginning with the careful selection of hardstones such as onyx or mother-of-pearl. The material is cut and polished into the signature quatrefoil while a gold frame is separately formed and finished. The stone is then fitted into the hand-beaded surround, with every chain link inspected before assembly. After mounting, the piece is polished and reviewed to ensure perfection. The result is a deceptively simple motif achieved through an intricate process requiring the coordination of many specialised artisans.

Famous figures and celebrities who have worn the Alhambra

The bold Alhambra design quickly became a favourite among the tastemakers of its era, including Grace Kelly, Françoise Hardy, Elizabeth Taylor, and Jackie Kennedy. Kelly, in particular, helped usher in a new approach to styling fine jewellery — pairing multiple strands of Alhambra necklaces in various gemstones with casual daytime looks like T‑shirts and jeans, proving that luxury need not be reserved for eveningwear.

Today, Alhambra necklaces and bracelets remain a celebrity staple. In recent years, the style has also been embraced by men, with figures such as Drake, A$AP Rocky, and LeBron James incorporating the motif into their wardrobes. The design continues to hold a special place amongst British royals as well, including Queen Camilla and the Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, who is often photographed wearing her mother‑of‑pearl Alhambra necklace and earring set — an enduring symbol of timeless elegance.

Iconic colours and variations

Traditionally, Alhambra pieces were produced in gold, mother of pearl and classic gemstones. Thanks to the enduring success, VCA continues to reinvent the Alhambra with new materials and collections. Sub-collections include Vintage Alhambra, Magic Alhambra, Sweet Alhambra, Pure Alhambra, Lucky Alhambra, and Byzantine Alhambra. Later iterations feature a range of semi-precious materials, such as carnelian, turquoise, onyx and tiger’s eye. They’ve also been crafted in diamonds. In 2012, Elizabeth Taylor’s limited edition diamond Alhambra broke a record, selling for $470,000 at Christies New York.

Limited edition releases often feature unusual materials like Bois d'amourette wood, coral, and tortoiseshell. The Alhambra ranges in shapes, as well, morphing the clover into motifs including butterflies — and onto wrists, in the form of a watch, with an Alhambra face.