J. COX. A VERY FINE AND UNUSUAL HEART-SHAPED DUAL-TIME PEARL-SET WATCH SET WITHIN A MAGNIFICENT CHINESE IMPERIAL MULTI-COLOURED GLASS BELT-BUCKLE

Details
J. COX. A VERY FINE AND UNUSUAL HEART-SHAPED DUAL-TIME PEARL-SET WATCH SET WITHIN A MAGNIFICENT CHINESE IMPERIAL MULTI-COLOURED GLASS BELT-BUCKLE
signed Jas. Cox, London, No.1004, circa 1770

the heart-shaped gilt verge movement with round pillars, chain fusee, the two white enamel dials with Roman numerals, gold hands, visible mock escapement set with rubies, all set within floral engraved heart-shaped gilt plate and gilt-metal case with a pearl-set hinged silver-gilt bezel, set witin an oval shaped silver case decorated with red, blue and green glass and pearl-set decoration to the front with red glass decorative insects, purple glass set to the rim, the back with belt buckle attachments and inscription, movement signed- 80mm wide.
Literature
A set of glass encrusted belt plaques are illustrated in Catalogue of the National Museum Special Exhibition of Quing Dynasty Costume Accessories, no. 34.

Also an encrusted clock from the same workshop was sold at Christie's Hong Kong on April 1st, 1992, lot 968.

A presentation scepter decorated in similar technique was sold at Christie's Hong Kong on October 10th, 1990, lot 928.

Other examples of glass encrusted objects for Imperial use are exhibited in the Palace Museum in Beijing and are described and illustrated in detail in Exhibition Catalogue, Hong Kong, 1987, p. 50-55, and are tributes from Guangdong to the Quing Court.

Lot Essay

This watch is a wounderful example of the combination of a European Jeweller and Toymaker, (Clare Le Corbeiller, James Cox, a biographical review, Burlington Magazine, June 1970, Vol. CXII, p. 351) and the long history of the Chinese Imperial Workshop of Guangzhou glassware.

James Cox was often refered to as a jeweller and toymaker as well as the proprietor of a museum of automata. Despite the various achievements throughout his lifetime there is surprisingly little known about him.
The first registered establishement dates back to 1749 even though the first written evidence of his business is dated 1751.

Though Cox specialised in automata, watches and bijouterie it appears that he has tried to explore other fields as well, one being the Nicholas Sprimont Chelsea porcelain manufactory.
This little expedition apparently lasted only five months but left James Cox in financial trouble. Two years later there were two auctions at Christie's which contained his stock in trade. The first auction held on 1st and 2nd July consisted of Chelsea scent bottles, china seals, Meissen boxes, rings and other jewellery. The second auction held on 16th and 17th December of the same year contained miscellaneous jewellery, watches, trifles, thimbles and seals which were probably the remains of his stock.
However at the begining of the same year James Cox had organized a display of his largest pieces of Automata at the Great Exhibition Room at Charing Cross and the museum was openend in February 1772.

Even though only one piece from the exhibition was described as a mate to one sent to Beijing earlier, the designs seemed to have been intended for the Chinese trade.

The museum remained opened throughout 1772 and closed briefly at the end of that year for refurbishment and, with additional new pieces, re-opened in early 1773. Cox was declared bankrupt in November 1778 and part of his stock was sold at Christie's on March 3rd 1779. There are no recorded pieces after 1772 and if a piece carries a Cox's signature after that date it should be assumed that these are not Cox's own work but contracted work on which he had no creative authority; the same should apply for pieces prior to 1766.

The exact date of James Cox's death cannot be traced and, although the year of his death is commonly regarded as 1788, there is evidence that he was still alive in 1790. Christie's held a sale of "Valuable Effects, Late the Property of Mr James Cox, of Shoe Lane, Jeweller" in 1792 which would imply that Cox died in the second half of 1791 or at the latest in January 1792.


Glass encrusted watches were particularly favoured by the Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795) as well as glass encrusted ornaments and clocks and many such pieces were sent as gifts or tributes to the Palace.

This particular piece was probably intended as a presentation object to the Imperial court and appears to be from the southern part of China namely Guangzhou (Canton). This area was famous for its composition which varied strongly from any other Chinese glass work as well as from the foreign glass technology. The history of glass in Guangzhou dates back as far as the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD) and results in a difference in firing techniques.

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