Nicholas Hilliard (1547-1619)

Details
Nicholas Hilliard (1547-1619)

A Very Fine Portrait Miniature of a Noblewoman, facing left in black dress slashed in white, caught at intervals with enamelled gold rods, a jewelled tassel, pearl-set clasps at the sleeves, three pearl-set and jewelled gold chains about her neck, a thistle and a fly alighting upon a daffodil pinned to the high lace ruff, elaborate necklace, many jewelled pins as well as a coif with jewelled border in her hair, blue background with gold edge

on vellum, turned ivory frame
oval, 2in. (51mm.) high
Provenance
J. Pierpont Morgan; Christie's, 25 June 1935, lot 236, as a Portrait of Queen Elizabeth by Lavina Teerlinc (540 gns. to Dr. Beets)
Literature
G. C. Williamson, Portrait Miniatures, London, 1910, p. 5, pl. II
G. C. Williamson, Catalogue of the Collection of Miniatures, the property of J. Pierpont Morgan, Supplementary Volume, 1932 (unpublished), p. I

Lot Essay

It is tantalising that the identity of this beautiful young lady at the court of Elizabeth I is unknown, painted circa 1590/95. The jewelled and pearl-set pins in her hair were a fashion much favoured by the Queen (e.g. the portrait at Ham House, R. Strong, Artists of the Tudor Court, London, 1983, p. 130, no. 209, and G. Reynolds, Nicholas Hilliard and Isaac Oliver, London, 1971, nos. 75, 76 and 77). The references to the thistle and daffodil escape us, but the fly alighting on the latter is one to Vanitas and the passing of all earthly goods. The treatment of the costume shows the virtuosity of Hilliard at the height of his powers

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