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Lot Essay
Preserved in excellent overall condition, this extremely attractive Cartier “tortue” wristwatch is one of the rarest models amongst Cartier’s “golden age” watches from the 1920s. The single button chronograph mechanism in use during this period allows its wearer to operate all three stop-watch functions: start, stop and return-to-zero, coaxially via the winding crown only, instead of the two button system found in most later chronograph watches – this gives these early watches a most elegant, smooth and uninterrupted line.
According to our research the present watch is only the tenth example of the tortue single button chronograph to ever be offered at auction.
In common with the most sophisticated vintage watch dials, this beautiful and clear matte silvered dial has inlaid champlevé hard enamel Roman numerals, chronograph/minute track, small seconds and 30-minute register, only the signature itself is printed. The solidly constructed case still exhibits clear hallmarks and is naturally fully numbered by Cartier.
Collectors and connoisseurs will appreciate the fine movement by the European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., the company formed in the early 1920s with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to make movements specifically for Cartier. It is now the signature most associated and desired when considering the vintage watches and clocks of Cartier.
Cartier Tortue
The tonneau-shaped "tortue à pattes" or "turtle on legs" wristwatch was designed by Louis Cartier in 1912. The shape of the case was made to resemble a turtle, a very popular animal during this era and a symbol of good fortune and longevity in many civilisations.
The first tortue model was the precursor of numerous watchmaking creations in the early 20th century, these first tortue watches were destined for ladies, the gentleman's version featuring a single button chronograph was available as of 1928.
This model is illustrated in: Le Temps de Cartier, Barracca, Negretti and Nencini, pp. 164-165;
Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte by Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, fifth edition, p. 337, pl. 1024.
The Cartier Museum at the Goldsmiths' Hall London, Exhibition 23rd May - 10th June 1988, catalogue, p. 50, pl. XXXVII.
According to our research the present watch is only the tenth example of the tortue single button chronograph to ever be offered at auction.
In common with the most sophisticated vintage watch dials, this beautiful and clear matte silvered dial has inlaid champlevé hard enamel Roman numerals, chronograph/minute track, small seconds and 30-minute register, only the signature itself is printed. The solidly constructed case still exhibits clear hallmarks and is naturally fully numbered by Cartier.
Collectors and connoisseurs will appreciate the fine movement by the European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., the company formed in the early 1920s with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to make movements specifically for Cartier. It is now the signature most associated and desired when considering the vintage watches and clocks of Cartier.
Cartier Tortue
The tonneau-shaped "tortue à pattes" or "turtle on legs" wristwatch was designed by Louis Cartier in 1912. The shape of the case was made to resemble a turtle, a very popular animal during this era and a symbol of good fortune and longevity in many civilisations.
The first tortue model was the precursor of numerous watchmaking creations in the early 20th century, these first tortue watches were destined for ladies, the gentleman's version featuring a single button chronograph was available as of 1928.
This model is illustrated in: Le Temps de Cartier, Barracca, Negretti and Nencini, pp. 164-165;
Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte by Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, fifth edition, p. 337, pl. 1024.
The Cartier Museum at the Goldsmiths' Hall London, Exhibition 23rd May - 10th June 1988, catalogue, p. 50, pl. XXXVII.