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Lot Essay
It is quite remarkable that in 2023, seventy-three years after Patek Philippe launched the reference 2499, a completely fresh to the market and previously unknown first series watch can still be discovered. What is even more remarkable is that the present watch is still the property of the family of the original owner and survives in superb overall condition. Furthermore, it is the only publicly known example of a first series 2499 to feature the days of the week and the month indications in German. It a great privilege for Christie’s to present this sensational new discovery at auction for the first time. It is, for even the most demanding of collectors, a once in a lifetime opportunity to discover, handle and possess (either temporarily or permanently) such a significant and important addition to the few known specimens of the first series reference 2499.
Unsurprisingly, having been treasured by the family of the original owner since new, this reference 2499 has always been treated with the utmost respect and care and maintained without regard to cost. Displaying excellent and very strong case proportions and well-defined fluting to the lugs, the clearly visible and crisp hallmarks are evidence of its careful treatment over the decades. The case further impresses with its, particularly for the period, large diameter of 37.6 mm. It was made by Wenger, one of Geneva’s best case makers at the time, indicated by the number 1 within a key symbol to the inside of the snap on back. Similarly, the dial has been superbly cleaned and professionally restored by Patek Philippe, still displaying full hard enamel signature and scales, perfectly well-defined without any loss and in wonderfully raised "indélébile".
The present first series watch is of particular importance and indeed it is possibly unique in having the calendar discs in German. Across all series of reference 2499, the German calendar is the rarest, with most examples being in either English, French and occasionally Italian. To the best of our knowledge, this extraordinary watch is the only example of a first series 2499 to feature a German Calendar.
To many watch collectors, the Patek Philippe reference 2499 is the most perfect vintage wristwatch ever created. With ideal proportions and unmatched dial design, few watches are surrounded by such mythical appeal; an absolute must for the discerning collector. The story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, are justifiably the ultimate ownership goal of collectors worldwide.
Interestingly, a first series reference 2499 with very close movement number 868’541 and case number 691’608, manufactured in 1956, is in the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum, Geneva, (Inv.P-632).
The Dial
First series, Mark 2, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled short Patek Philippe signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph, date and register hands are made from flamed blued steel. The days of the week and the months are in German.
The Case
Serial no. 691’611, made circa 1956 by Wenger, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 1 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Serial no. 868’544, cal. 13’’’130, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, stamped with the Geneva seal, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. In fact, Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that remains undimmed to the present day.
The ancestor of all Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs is the quite remarkable reference 1518. Launched in 1942 at the height of World War II, it provided the blueprint for all subsequent models, the dial design is iconic in translating the complex functions of the mechanism into not only a highly readable displays but also making them visually beautiful, proportionate and harmonious. This layout established in 1942 with the day and month in two windows below 12 o’clock, concentric outer minutes and 1/5th second chronograph track, tachymeter scale, minute counter and continuous seconds at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively has continued to be the basis for the dial design up to the present day.
Following reference 1518, although available at the same time for a couple of years, came the present incomparable reference 2499. Slightly larger than the 1518 with a diameter of 37.5 mm., it is considered by many to be the most perfectly designed and proportioned wristwatch of all time. The reference 2499 reigned supreme as Patek’s most revered and coveted complicated watch for 35 years and continues to be the single most iconic ‘must have’ vintage complicated wristwatch for all serious collectors.
Reference 2499
Widely acknowledged as one of the world's greatest wristwatch models ever created, reference 2499 has strongly influenced the designs of many of the most renowned watchmakers. Introduced to the market in 1950 it replaced the legendary reference 1518, the world's first perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase and chronograph made in series. Over a period of 35 years, reference 2499 was made in four series in a total production of only 349 pieces, the majority cased in yellow gold. The rarity of the model becomes evident when considering that an annual average of only 9 watches left Patek Philippe's workshops.
Reference 2499 is generally divided into the following four series:
- First series: the present watch: square chronograph buttons, applied Arabic numerals and tachymeter scale
- Second series: round chronograph buttons, either applied baton or applied Arabic numerals and tachymeter scale
- Third series: round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals and outer seconds divisions
- Fourth series: round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and sapphire crystal
The Casemakers André and Edouard Wenger
The brothers André and Edouard Wenger, originally from Le Locle, founded their workshop in Geneva in 1912. Right from the start the firm became renowned for the extraordinary quality and contemporary design of the cases, supplied to the most important watch companies of the time. In the 1930s, the Wenger's launched a truly revolutionary project, the production of shaped stainless steel cases and developed, amongst other items, the first reversible wristwatch. Their designs strongly influenced the creation of wristwatch and pocket watch cases particularly during the Art Deco period and are still today considered true collector's pieces.
Unsurprisingly, having been treasured by the family of the original owner since new, this reference 2499 has always been treated with the utmost respect and care and maintained without regard to cost. Displaying excellent and very strong case proportions and well-defined fluting to the lugs, the clearly visible and crisp hallmarks are evidence of its careful treatment over the decades. The case further impresses with its, particularly for the period, large diameter of 37.6 mm. It was made by Wenger, one of Geneva’s best case makers at the time, indicated by the number 1 within a key symbol to the inside of the snap on back. Similarly, the dial has been superbly cleaned and professionally restored by Patek Philippe, still displaying full hard enamel signature and scales, perfectly well-defined without any loss and in wonderfully raised "indélébile".
The present first series watch is of particular importance and indeed it is possibly unique in having the calendar discs in German. Across all series of reference 2499, the German calendar is the rarest, with most examples being in either English, French and occasionally Italian. To the best of our knowledge, this extraordinary watch is the only example of a first series 2499 to feature a German Calendar.
To many watch collectors, the Patek Philippe reference 2499 is the most perfect vintage wristwatch ever created. With ideal proportions and unmatched dial design, few watches are surrounded by such mythical appeal; an absolute must for the discerning collector. The story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, are justifiably the ultimate ownership goal of collectors worldwide.
Interestingly, a first series reference 2499 with very close movement number 868’541 and case number 691’608, manufactured in 1956, is in the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum, Geneva, (Inv.P-632).
The Dial
First series, Mark 2, made by Stern Frères on a silver plate base, with engraved enamelled short Patek Philippe signature, engraved sunken registers, matte silver ‘satiné-opalin’ surface finish, engraved-enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register. The moon phase is artisan enamelled on a gold base plate. The ‘feuille’ hour and minutes hands are gold, as is the subsidiary seconds hand. The chronograph, date and register hands are made from flamed blued steel. The days of the week and the months are in German.
The Case
Serial no. 691’611, made circa 1956 by Wenger, one of the all-time best Geneva Master case makers and is punched with his mark of number 1 within a key. Of three-piece construction with snapped bezel and back.
The Movement
Serial no. 868’544, cal. 13’’’130, rhodium plated brass, based on a valjoux 13’’’ ébauche, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time, under dial modifications by the Victorin Piguet workshop in order to receive the perpetual calendar function, stamped with the Geneva seal, 23 jewels, monometallic balance with 8 adjustments, micrometric precision regulator.
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. In fact, Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that remains undimmed to the present day.
The ancestor of all Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs is the quite remarkable reference 1518. Launched in 1942 at the height of World War II, it provided the blueprint for all subsequent models, the dial design is iconic in translating the complex functions of the mechanism into not only a highly readable displays but also making them visually beautiful, proportionate and harmonious. This layout established in 1942 with the day and month in two windows below 12 o’clock, concentric outer minutes and 1/5th second chronograph track, tachymeter scale, minute counter and continuous seconds at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively has continued to be the basis for the dial design up to the present day.
Following reference 1518, although available at the same time for a couple of years, came the present incomparable reference 2499. Slightly larger than the 1518 with a diameter of 37.5 mm., it is considered by many to be the most perfectly designed and proportioned wristwatch of all time. The reference 2499 reigned supreme as Patek’s most revered and coveted complicated watch for 35 years and continues to be the single most iconic ‘must have’ vintage complicated wristwatch for all serious collectors.
Reference 2499
Widely acknowledged as one of the world's greatest wristwatch models ever created, reference 2499 has strongly influenced the designs of many of the most renowned watchmakers. Introduced to the market in 1950 it replaced the legendary reference 1518, the world's first perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase and chronograph made in series. Over a period of 35 years, reference 2499 was made in four series in a total production of only 349 pieces, the majority cased in yellow gold. The rarity of the model becomes evident when considering that an annual average of only 9 watches left Patek Philippe's workshops.
Reference 2499 is generally divided into the following four series:
- First series: the present watch: square chronograph buttons, applied Arabic numerals and tachymeter scale
- Second series: round chronograph buttons, either applied baton or applied Arabic numerals and tachymeter scale
- Third series: round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals and outer seconds divisions
- Fourth series: round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and sapphire crystal
The Casemakers André and Edouard Wenger
The brothers André and Edouard Wenger, originally from Le Locle, founded their workshop in Geneva in 1912. Right from the start the firm became renowned for the extraordinary quality and contemporary design of the cases, supplied to the most important watch companies of the time. In the 1930s, the Wenger's launched a truly revolutionary project, the production of shaped stainless steel cases and developed, amongst other items, the first reversible wristwatch. Their designs strongly influenced the creation of wristwatch and pocket watch cases particularly during the Art Deco period and are still today considered true collector's pieces.