Lot Essay
REF. 130J SC – THE EARLIEST AND ONLY ONE KNOWN WITH SWEEP SECONDS
It is always a rare and much anticipated event when any probably unique and early example of a vintage Patek Philippe reference is offered at international auction. It is therefore with great excitement that Christie’s now offers to international collectors and all admirers of Patek Philippe, not only the first and only known example of a reference 130 ‘time only’ and sweep centre seconds but also one of the very earliest specimens of reference 130 ever made. Furthermore, it is fitted with a beautiful two-tone silvered ‘Sector’ dial and is the first reference 130 of any kind with a snap-on back as well as the earliest reference 130 of any type identified by case serial number. The present watch which is fully Extract confirmed can be considered not only as an exemplar of Patek Philippe’s design, craftsmanship and technological advancement, but also an historic important early ‘prototype’ or perhaps special request watch that is a true cornerstone of the entire reference.
The dating of the constituent parts and the construction of the present watch suggest that it is possibly the first ever reference 130, or a kind of ‘prototype’ for an unrealized model or a special request piece for Guillermin. The caliber 12 SC gilt-brass movement with sweep centre seconds feature was made in 1924, 10 years before the existence of reference 130. The case was made in 1933, one year before the launch of reference 130 and the dial in around 1934, the year of launch. The completed watch was sold as a reference 130 in 1935.
Presented in immaculately restored condition, the present watch has been cleaned and fully restored at various stages over the last 40 years at great expense and must look much as it did on the day of its purchase. A top-flight restoration has not only aesthetic but practical advantages in that the watch has been brought back up to its manufacture standard and can be enjoyed as originally intended. The ethos behind this is much the same as a ground-up rebuild of a classic car to concours standard so that it can be regularly used and admired. The dial was most likely fully refinished in the 1980s and more recently has been lightly cleaned and new ‘zapon’ coating applied. The case although polished over the years retains strong proportions and clear hallmarks. Within the last 2 years, the movement has been the subject of a documented major overhaul and restoration by Patek Philippe at a cost of over 20,000 Swiss Francs.
This stunning and probably unique reference 130, a key piece in the history of both the model and Patek Philippe is undoubtedly a superb and wearable vintage prize for the collector.
Dial
Made by Stern Frères circa 1934, two-tone silvered sector dial with four raised gold indexes, signature and scales entirely engraved enamelled. Restored twice, once in the 1980s and once in the recent past.
Case
Serial number 609’839, made in 1933 by Emile Vichet, three-part with snap-on bezel, four hallmarks visible including French ‘owl’ import marks on the back of two lugs as well as case rim and a further two inside the case back. Also bearing the ‘Fab Suisse’ mark for watches imported into France and retailer’s mark for Jean Guillermin, Patel Philippe’s French distributor of the time. The inside of the band and bezel are correctly marked with the last three digits of the serial number. The winding crown was replaced probably in the 1950s or 60s. The gold strap buckle is from the 1930s.
Movement
Serial number 201’534, caliber 12 SC, made in 1924. Gilt brass LeCoultre ébauche, stamped with the Geneva seal. Fully overhauled in Patek Philippe’s workshops at great expense, taking over a year and a half at the factory, completed in 2022, now superb pristine condition.
Provenance
Antiquorum Geneva 1995
Antiquorum HK 2000
Antiquorum New York 2000
Private Collection until 2020
The present owner
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
Reference 130
Reference 130 is known as being the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to have been given an individual reference number. The model is instantly recognizable by its Calatrava case, flat rectangular chronograph push buttons and concave bezel. Production was started in 1934. Subsequently it became a true icon of Patek Philippe. The reference has since become one of the most collectable vintage chronographs of all due to the variety of case materials and dial designs that were available over its production period.
It is always a rare and much anticipated event when any probably unique and early example of a vintage Patek Philippe reference is offered at international auction. It is therefore with great excitement that Christie’s now offers to international collectors and all admirers of Patek Philippe, not only the first and only known example of a reference 130 ‘time only’ and sweep centre seconds but also one of the very earliest specimens of reference 130 ever made. Furthermore, it is fitted with a beautiful two-tone silvered ‘Sector’ dial and is the first reference 130 of any kind with a snap-on back as well as the earliest reference 130 of any type identified by case serial number. The present watch which is fully Extract confirmed can be considered not only as an exemplar of Patek Philippe’s design, craftsmanship and technological advancement, but also an historic important early ‘prototype’ or perhaps special request watch that is a true cornerstone of the entire reference.
The dating of the constituent parts and the construction of the present watch suggest that it is possibly the first ever reference 130, or a kind of ‘prototype’ for an unrealized model or a special request piece for Guillermin. The caliber 12 SC gilt-brass movement with sweep centre seconds feature was made in 1924, 10 years before the existence of reference 130. The case was made in 1933, one year before the launch of reference 130 and the dial in around 1934, the year of launch. The completed watch was sold as a reference 130 in 1935.
Presented in immaculately restored condition, the present watch has been cleaned and fully restored at various stages over the last 40 years at great expense and must look much as it did on the day of its purchase. A top-flight restoration has not only aesthetic but practical advantages in that the watch has been brought back up to its manufacture standard and can be enjoyed as originally intended. The ethos behind this is much the same as a ground-up rebuild of a classic car to concours standard so that it can be regularly used and admired. The dial was most likely fully refinished in the 1980s and more recently has been lightly cleaned and new ‘zapon’ coating applied. The case although polished over the years retains strong proportions and clear hallmarks. Within the last 2 years, the movement has been the subject of a documented major overhaul and restoration by Patek Philippe at a cost of over 20,000 Swiss Francs.
This stunning and probably unique reference 130, a key piece in the history of both the model and Patek Philippe is undoubtedly a superb and wearable vintage prize for the collector.
Dial
Made by Stern Frères circa 1934, two-tone silvered sector dial with four raised gold indexes, signature and scales entirely engraved enamelled. Restored twice, once in the 1980s and once in the recent past.
Case
Serial number 609’839, made in 1933 by Emile Vichet, three-part with snap-on bezel, four hallmarks visible including French ‘owl’ import marks on the back of two lugs as well as case rim and a further two inside the case back. Also bearing the ‘Fab Suisse’ mark for watches imported into France and retailer’s mark for Jean Guillermin, Patel Philippe’s French distributor of the time. The inside of the band and bezel are correctly marked with the last three digits of the serial number. The winding crown was replaced probably in the 1950s or 60s. The gold strap buckle is from the 1930s.
Movement
Serial number 201’534, caliber 12 SC, made in 1924. Gilt brass LeCoultre ébauche, stamped with the Geneva seal. Fully overhauled in Patek Philippe’s workshops at great expense, taking over a year and a half at the factory, completed in 2022, now superb pristine condition.
Provenance
Antiquorum Geneva 1995
Antiquorum HK 2000
Antiquorum New York 2000
Private Collection until 2020
The present owner
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
Reference 130
Reference 130 is known as being the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to have been given an individual reference number. The model is instantly recognizable by its Calatrava case, flat rectangular chronograph push buttons and concave bezel. Production was started in 1934. Subsequently it became a true icon of Patek Philippe. The reference has since become one of the most collectable vintage chronographs of all due to the variety of case materials and dial designs that were available over its production period.