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Color and Ingenuity: The Collection of Lucille Coleman
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' FLAG BROOCH
Details
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' FLAG BROOCH
Designed as a flag depicting the letter 'M,' calibré-cut sapphires and rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and yellow gold, circa 1955, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., S.O.
Size/Dimensions: 4.2 x 3.2 cm (1 5⁄8 x 1 ¼ in)
Gross Weight: 10.8 grams
Designed as a flag depicting the letter 'M,' calibré-cut sapphires and rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and yellow gold, circa 1955, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., S.O.
Size/Dimensions: 4.2 x 3.2 cm (1 5⁄8 x 1 ¼ in)
Gross Weight: 10.8 grams
Further Details
Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
The ruby-set ‘M’ on the brooch is for Milton, Mrs. Coleman’s beloved husband of 45 years.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
The ruby-set ‘M’ on the brooch is for Milton, Mrs. Coleman’s beloved husband of 45 years.
Brought to you by
Rahul Kadakia
International Head of Jewellery