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Color and Ingenuity: The Collection of Lucille Coleman
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' LEAF BROOCH
细节
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' LEAF BROOCH
Calibré-cut rubies, baguette-cut diamonds, yellow and white gold, circa 1965, signed VCA NY, numbered
Size/Dimensions: 5.0 x 4.4 cm (2 x 1 ¾ in)
Gross Weight: 16.8 grams
Calibré-cut rubies, baguette-cut diamonds, yellow and white gold, circa 1965, signed VCA NY, numbered
Size/Dimensions: 5.0 x 4.4 cm (2 x 1 ¾ in)
Gross Weight: 16.8 grams
来源
Herbert and Nell Singer
Sotheby's, New York, 24 April 2007, Sale N08306, Lot 344
Sotheby's, New York, 24 April 2007, Sale N08306, Lot 344
出版
Cf. D. Bennett and D. Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, Antique Collectors' Club Ltd., 1989, p. 370
更多详情
Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
荣誉呈献
Rahul Kadakia
International Head of Jewellery