In the Frame: Simon Porte Jacquemus
From Van Gogh to Cocteau, French fashion designer Simon Porte Jacquemus finds moments of awe far and wide. Busy with opening a new store in New York’s SoHo and being honored with the Chevalier de l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres, he recently designed the scenography for François-Xavier Lalanne, Sculpteur | Collection Dorothée Lalanne, on view at Christie’s New York 4-10 October
What artists are you watching right now?
Simon Porte Jacquemus: ‘I’ve been recently really into the work of Leon Golub, and always Tarsila do Amaral, Louis Fratino and Peter Schlesinger.’
Your favourite view anywhere in the world?
SPJ: ‘My bedroom view in Mallemort, the town where I was born, in the South of France.’
The last gift you gave? And last gift you received?
SPJ: ‘I gifted an Apple baby bodysuit that I bought when I visited the Apple HQ in Palo Alto. I received a knitted plaid blanket with a fish pattern.’
François-Xavier Lalanne (1927-2008), Âne Bâté, 2005. Patinated bronze, polished metal, leather. Closed: 65 x 37¾; x 72⅞ in (165 x 96 x 185 cm); open: 65 x 61 x 72⅞ in (165 x 155 x 185 cm). Estimate: $700,000-1,000,000. Offered in François-Xavier Lalanne, Sculpteur | Collection Dorothée Lalanne on 10 October 2024 at Christie’s in New York
What inspired you in creating the exhibition for François-Xavier Lalanne, Sculpteur | Collection Dorothée Lalanne?
SPJ: ‘Returning to Lalanne’s house, I wanted to create stories that blend poetry with unexpected twists — an art sale in the heart of Manhattan with a wheat field, or a child’s bed draped in a silver leather blanket — combining elements that wouldn’t usually go together.’
What do you want visitors to experience while visiting the exhibition?
François-Xavier Lalanne (1927-2008), L'Oiseleur II, 2003. Gilt bronze, patinated bronze, painted wood, with rotating mechanism. 85⅜ x 35⅜ x 31½ in (217 x 90 x 80 cm). Estimate: $400,000-600,000. Offered in François-Xavier Lalanne, Sculpteur | Collection Dorothée Lalanne on 10 October 2024 at Christie’s in New York
SPJ: ‘I want them to smile, like I did when I had the chance to unpack François-Xavier’s pieces. I felt like a child again. There’s a unique emotion when you encounter an artwork you’ve known forever but only through images. It’s similar to the feeling I had when I first visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art and saw paintings by Cézanne and Van Gogh — I felt like I personally knew all of them.’
‘My favourite piece is L’Oiseleur II (2003). It reminds me of a Cocteau character. My other favourite is Âne Bâté (2005) — I passed my childhood with donkeys. It makes me feel at home.’
Your fashion creations have a poetic and playful dimension, much like François-Xavier Lalanne’s work. How does this sense of joy manifest in your work?
SPJ: ‘I’ve always been drawn to lightness and joy. That sense of light, almost like a solar energy or tone of voice, is very important in my work. It feels very French to me, and it reminds me of Lalanne’s house and pieces.’
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