Defining excellence: inside The Iconic 40 Watches Evening Sale

2026 marks Christie's 40th anniversary in Asia. This season, that milestone is being celebrated through a very different kind of sale: The Iconic 40 Watches Evening Sale, a carefully curated selection of 40 exceptional timepieces brought together to mark four decades of collecting, connoisseurship and market evolution in the region.

For Alex Bigler, Senior International Specialist, Head of Collections of Christie’s Watches department, the concept was both simple and ambitious.

‘Forty years of Christie's in Asia, celebrated through forty extraordinary watches,’ he says. ‘We wanted to create something truly memorable, bringing together exceptional timepieces that represent the very best of watchmaking across generations. Every watch had to earn its place. There are no supporting acts in this auction.’

This is not simply another watch auction. It is a statement about how watch collecting has matured in Asia and where it is headed next. As Bigler explains, ‘We are not simply celebrating 40 years of history, we are setting the stage for the next chapter.’

Asia’s evolution of connoisseurship

Over the past two decades, Asia has emerged as one of the world's most important centres for watch collecting. ‘Asian collectors have evolved from enthusiastic buyers into global tastemakers,’ says Bigler. ‘They are exceptionally knowledgeable, increasingly selective and confident in their own collecting philosophies.’

The shift is reflected in what collectors value. Technical complexity and rarity remain important, but they are no longer enough on their own. ‘Provenance, originality, historical significance and emotional connection are equally important.’ Adds Bigler.

Those priorities helped shape every aspect of The Iconic 40 Evening sale.

Rather than assembling a sale built around fashionable references or headline estimates, Bigler and his team set out to identify watches that have left a lasting imprint on the history of horology. Some are revered vintage classics. Others represent the most innovative voices in contemporary independent watchmaking. Together, they tell a broader story of excellence across generations.

Popularity comes and goes, true importance endures.

What makes an icon?

The word ‘iconic’ is frequently used in collecting circles. But for Bigler, the definition extends far beyond market performance.

‘An iconic watch transcends fashion, rarity and market value,’ he says. ‘It represents a defining moment in watchmaking and continues to inspire collectors across generations.’

Among the watches in the sale, few illustrate that philosophy more clearly than the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in pink gold.

Introduced in 1941, reference 1518 occupies a singular place in watchmaking history as the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. It established a blueprint that would influence generations of complicated wristwatches and remains one of the most revered creations ever produced by Patek Philippe.

Only 281 examples were manufactured across all metals, with fewer than 60 pink gold examples known to the market today. Yet rarity alone is not what makes this example so compelling.

Its exceptional state of preservation, beautifully maintained dial and crisply defined hallmarks embody the qualities that increasingly matter most to today's sophisticated collectors. Further enhancing its desirability is an extraordinarily rare detachable Patek Philippe pink gold bracelet, a feature seldom encountered and nearly impossible to source independently. More than eight decades after its introduction, the reference continues to command admiration.

As Bigler puts it: ‘Rarity creates desire. History creates significance. Time creates icons.’

Beyond rarity

If reference 1518 represents one of the most celebrated milestones in watchmaking history, another watch in the sale demonstrates a different kind of collecting appeal.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 1579A is among the rarest vintage chronographs produced by the manufacture, distinguished by its sculptural ‘spider lugs’ and exceptionally limited production in stainless steel. Its significance lies partly in an irony that has long fascinated collectors: steel sometimes becomes more precious than gold.

Produced during an era when Patek Philippe's most prestigious creations were generally crafted in precious metals, stainless-steel examples were made in extremely limited numbers. As a result, surviving examples have become some of the most coveted watches in vintage collecting.

But the appeal of the present specimen extends beyond rarity statistics. Its remarkable visual harmony, attractive dial and beautifully preserved case illustrate a broader change in collecting culture. Increasingly, knowledgeable collectors are evaluating watches through the lens of originality, condition and aesthetic quality rather than rarity alone.

Reference 1579A exemplifies what many describe as ‘quiet luxury’ in watch collecting. Its significance is immediately recognised by seasoned connoisseurs yet remains largely invisible to those outside the field.

It is the type of watch that rewards knowledge, patience and experience, qualities that also define the world's greatest collections.

The architecture of great collections

Bigler has spent nearly two decades working with collectors around the world, and his recent transition into the expanded role of Head of Collections has only reinforced certain lessons.

‘The greatest collections are built on relationships, trust and a shared passion for excellence,’ he says. ‘My role is not simply to advise on the value of a watch, but to understand the value of an entire collection and the vision behind it.’

Remarkable collections, he believes, are rarely assembled by chasing short-term market trends, but rather by curiosity, conviction and patience, qualities that distinguish truly great collectors, who are often years ahead of the market.

‘The greatest collectors do not follow trends. They develop their own vision, often recognizing exceptional watches long before the wider market appreciates their significance.’ Bigler points out.

Those values are reflected throughout The Iconic 40, particularly in its embrace of independent watchmaking.

Over the last two decades, independent watchmakers have moved from the margins of the market to become some of its most influential creative voices. Their rise mirrors a broader shift among collectors toward individuality, craftsmanship and originality. Few names embody that movement more powerfully than F.P. Journe.

The independent spirit

Among the most visually striking watches in the sale is the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Cœur de Rubis, a watch that demonstrates how contemporary watchmaking can be simultaneously innovative, artistic and technically uncompromising.

Limited to just 20 examples, it combines one of François-Paul Journe's most celebrated movements with a spectacular natural ruby dial whose rich crimson tones ensure that no two examples are ever exactly alike.

The watch pairs visual drama with formidable horological substance. Beneath the vibrant ruby surface lies a movement featuring a one-minute tourbillon, remontoir d'égalité constant-force mechanism and deadbeat seconds, reflecting Journe's relentless pursuit of chronometric precision. It is daring without compromise, technically brilliant and visually unforgettable.

‘For the collector who already has everything, this is the kind of watch that changes everything.’ Bigler remarks.

If the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 represents a historic foundation, the Cœur de Rubis points toward the future. Together, the two watches reveal the breadth of today's collecting landscape: one rooted in history, the other driven by contemporary creativity. Different eras. Different visions. Yet both possess the qualities that define true icons. For Bigler, reference 1518 represents a milestone in horological history, while the F.P. Journe embodies the creativity and audacity of contemporary independent watchmaking.

‘Together, they perfectly capture the spirit of The Iconic 40: a celebration of watchmaking excellence across generations.’

The next forty years

For Bigler, that dialogue between heritage and innovation will continue to shape the future of collecting in Asia.

He is particularly encouraged by the next generation of collectors entering the market. It is a generation less concerned with following established paths and more interested in defining its own.

‘They are younger, highly educated, globally connected and increasingly independent in their tastes,’ he says. ‘They respect tradition but are equally fascinated by innovation, creativity and independent watchmaking.’

That spirit feels especially fitting for a sale marking a milestone anniversary. Every element, from the selection and storytelling to the catalogue and exhibition, is designed to create an exceptional experience. ‘We want collectors to feel they are attending something beyond an auction: a celebration of watchmaking at its highest level.’ Says Bigler.

While The Iconic 40 Evening sale celebrates four decades of Christie's presence in Asia, it is ultimately about looking forward. Through forty watches that chart the evolution of horology, from historic milestones to modern masterpieces, the sale reflects the tastes, passions and possibilities that will shape the next generation of collecting.