A DIAMOND, GOLD AND ENAMEL LATIN CROSS
A DIAMOND, GOLD AND ENAMEL LATIN CROSS

細節
A DIAMOND, GOLD AND ENAMEL LATIN CROSS
The front richly set with diamonds of rose and other cuts in gold collets, that of the centre engrailed, outlined in black and white opaque enamelled foliage and open flowerheads, the reverse enamelled in pink, white and black with the Instruments of the Passion of Christ, from top to bottom:
1) three nails
2) the four initial letters of the Latin "Jesus Nazarenus Rex Judaeorum" - INRI - (translates "Jesus of Nazareth, King of Jews", the inscription that was above the cross)
3) the cock of the Denial of St. Peter
4) the column of the flagellation
5) the crown of thorns
6) sponge soaked in vinegar on reed
7) lance used to pierce Christ's side
8) Sword of St. Peter used to cut off ear of Malchus, servant of the High Priest
9) water ewer used by Pilate to wash his hands
10) whip used for flagellation
11) a) hammer for nailing Christ to the cross
b) palm of triumphal entry into Jerusalem
12) ladder
13) chalice with host of Last Supper
14) pincers for removal of body
15) (rubbed section) presumably for bag containing 30 pieces of silver 16) lantern used in betrayal in garden
17) Christ's garment
18) dice with which soldiers cast lot for the above
19) veil with which St. Veronica wiped the face of Christ
20) ear of Malchus
21) hand transfixed by nail
22) torch - another emblem of the Betrayal - "lanterns and torches"
23) reed-like sceptre put in Christ's hands as "King"
circa 1650 (with some damage to the enamel)

拍品專文

Although such crosses were worn throughout the 17th Century, these opaque enamels, as opposed to "champlev", suggest a mid-century date. The jewel's style is very international with the depiction of the Instruments of the Passion pointing to a Roman Catholic origin.

Due to the date of the object's manufacture, the diamonds would most likely be of Golconda origin. They demonstrate several cuts that one may usually only observe in museum pieces. There are three identifiable shapes. The three-faceted, shield-shaped "Chiffre" cut - a flattish triangular pyramid - dates to the 14th Century. The "Taille en Seize" derived its name from the drawings of Gilles Lgar, one of the most talented Parisian jewellery designers of his time, who usually used diamonds with 16 facets in his images. In this cross, we see stones of 12 and 20 facets. This is achieved by subtracting or adding four facets, but the basic shape remains the same. The last cut, the "Rose", is similar to the "Taille en Seize", but its form, which in this case is hidden by the setting, is round. These "angular" diamonds indicate that full rose cuts were not always properly finished. A very popular cut in the 17th Century, they were later used to embellish informal jewels.