A SUITE OF GOLDEN HORDE TURQUOISE INSET GOLD JEWELLERY

Details
A SUITE OF GOLDEN HORDE TURQUOISE INSET GOLD JEWELLERY
CENTRAL ASIA, 14TH CENTURY

Comprising two earrings, a pendant, two triangular panels and a hexagonal ornament formed of ten lozenge and four triangular panels, each of box construction, the flat base with looped sides supporting the flat upper surface extremely finely worked in filigree with scrolling motifs and applied granulated rosettes around raised housings of various outlines for shaped cabochon turquoises, the earrings also with granulated hemispherical decoration above a rosette raised to a higher plane, the reverse of each either with attachment loops or, in the case of the smaller panels, with small holes for stitching to a backcloth, a number of turquoises missing, otherwise excellent condition, fitted case
2½ x 2 3/8in. (6.3 x 6cm.) and smaller

Lot Essay

These are particularly fine examples of the jewellery of the Golden Horde, those Mongols who under the leadership of Gengis Khan's son Juchi settled in the lower Volga and Crimea in the second half of the thirteenth century. The Russian archaeologist M.G.Kramarovsky has recently published a study of the Treasure of Niezatski, a cache of jewellery including bracelets and phylacteries in the form of pendants recovered in the Crimea. The latter have the same box construction as ours (Kramarovsky, M.G., 'Niezatski Treasure: Crimea and Asia Minor in the 14th century', Bizantiya i blizhni Vostok Gosudarstvennugo Ermitazha, XLVII, St. Petersburg, 1994). But our examples are even more closely related to the gold pendant in the Hermitage Museum (Masterpieces of Art in the Hermitage Museum, exhibition held in the Dar al-Athar al-Islamiyyah, Kuwait, 1990, no.48). The pendant in the Hermitage has the same box construction, the same style of general design based on leaf forms and the same combination of filigree and granulation. Finally the settings of the shaped cabochon stones, in that example rock crystal, within granulated borders are identical.

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