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"Frank Jutzi decided to include a tourbillon of his own making in a tonneau-shaped white gold watchcase. Coupled with a dial made of solid silver, the white shimmer of the weighty case gives the timepiece a stately, yet unpretentious look.
The blue Arabic numerals and the Goldpfeil logo on the dial are exquisitely executed by a master engraver, who left the interplay of light and shade to speak for itself.
The classical "cathedral-shape" hour and minute hands are made of blue steel. The highlight of the watch, however, may be observed through the lower half of the dial. There, between the numeral 6 and the hand-arbor, a circular aperture offers the eye an incredible view of the tourbillon, hand-crafted by Frank Jutzi. Its filigree cage is made of steel, polished and chamfered with utmost care, its bars being only fractions of a millimetre thick.
Frank Jutzi spared no expenses in perfecting his masterpiece. He even crafted a Breguet overcoil balance-spring especially calculated and gauged to the balance that is adjustable with balance screws. Making a Breguet balance-spring is an art of its own. As with the tourbillon, its chief aim is to compensate the influence of gravitational forces. Given that it is only about four millimetres in diameter, one can easily imagine what a task it must be to curve the thin steel blade into a spiral balance-spring and finally add the so-called Breguet bends or overcoil.
As opposed to a regular balance spring or spiral, the two ends are situated on two levels, a fact that allows the spring to "breathe" more regularly, keeping its gravitational centre constantly in the same position.
The tourbillon is integrated into a very original tonneau-shaped movement from the beginning of the twentieth century. Frank Jutzi had to carefully adapt it to include his own mechanism. Any mistake would have been fatal, since the movement is so difficult to get. The watchmaker even integrated the movement's original balance wheel featuring a self-compensating metallic rim and adjustment screws.
Frank Jutzi's unique masterpiece is a perfect blend of the modern with the classical. Its extremely understated case with integrated horns and a sapphire back is beautifully coupled with a dial that brings the belle epoque back to vibrant life. It is worn on a leather strap with a solid gold buckle."
Extract from Goldpfeil, Watch History in the Making.
GOLDPFEIL. AN 18K WHITE GOLD WRISTWATCH WITH TOURBILLON ESCAPEMENT
FRANK JUTZI, 2000
细节
GOLDPFEIL. AN 18K WHITE GOLD WRISTWATCH WITH TOURBILLON ESCAPEMENT
Frank Jutzi, 2000
Full plate pink gilt mechanical movement with tourbillon escapement having blued steel Breguet balance spring and cut bimetallic compensation balance, silvered dial with blue enamel hours, outer blue enamel minute track, blued steel cathedral hands, tourbillon visible through aperture at six o'clock, the tourbillon bridge attached to the dial, rectangular case with glazed back secured by four screws and down-turned lugs, dial signed Goldpfeil, movement signed Frank Jutzi AHCI.
Frank Jutzi, 2000
Full plate pink gilt mechanical movement with tourbillon escapement having blued steel Breguet balance spring and cut bimetallic compensation balance, silvered dial with blue enamel hours, outer blue enamel minute track, blued steel cathedral hands, tourbillon visible through aperture at six o'clock, the tourbillon bridge attached to the dial, rectangular case with glazed back secured by four screws and down-turned lugs, dial signed Goldpfeil, movement signed Frank Jutzi AHCI.