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"Beauty, art and luxury, are inseparable from happiness"
Joel Rosenthal, 2002
To see a jewel by JAR is to know that the creative force behind it must be as intrinsically cultured and profound as the jewel itself. With a Harvard art and philosophy degree, Joel Rosenthal's experience in the art world extends from writing Hollywood and French movie scripts to designing tapestries and a period at Bulgari. Yet it is his passion, vision and pure love of art that is so manifest in his jewels. Having founded JAR in 1977 with his Swiss business partner Pierre Jeannet, Rosenthal has created a name analogous to extraordinary and breathtaking creativity and has been named by some as one of today's greatest living jeweller.
That he has become one of, if not the, singular most influential contemporary jewellery designer in the world, is reflected by his intensely loyal, and exclusive, group of collectors. Visiting the appointment only boutique on Place Vendôme, and attracted rather by word of mouth than advertising (for discretion is publicity), the clients of JAR appreciate not only the exceptional design, craftsmanship and quality, but also the ultimate perfection sought in each jewel.
While every design is a unique, once only, work of art, the variety perceptible throughout JAR jewels is extensive, and demonstrates that these are extremist jewels without imaginative or technical limit. Designs range from generously large to tiny and delicate. Important single stones nest amongst pavé-set multi-coloured mosaics. White Golconda diamonds are employed in one piece, orange and green African garnets in another. Explosive combinations of colour are effected by conversely subtle gradations, all complemented by a mixture of tones and textures.
A sense of history, culture and humour permeates any collection of JAR jewels and is equally manifest in the jewels offered here. The sculptural form of the fleur-de-lys ring (lot 417) evokes architectural medieval motifs, while the clean delicacy of the three stone diamond ring (lot 423) belies a certain art deco elegance. The simple gold baby nappy pin bracelet (lot 419) is touching and whimsical at the same time, contrasted with the formidable and historical associations of the seven Moghul flower brooches (lot 424). The moonstone crescent ring (lot 422) combines both a clear and playful pun in its manufacture with the hidden literary conceit of a Shakespeare quotation.
In addition to the unique singularity of each design, JAR jewels are also rare in number, with only sixty to seventy produced per year. The result is that they are incredibly sought after, to the extent that they have essentially passed into the realms of collector's items and museum pieces. The infrequent appearance of one or two at auction often creates a stir, but to see eight JAR jewels together is remarkable. Conspicuous in their diversity, and transcending the extreme ranges of whimsical or academic design, natural, historical or literary inspiration, they all share the same philosophy as their master: in being aesthetically beautiful, intrinsically artistic and delightfully emotive.
THE PROPERTY OF A LADY
A DIAMOND 'FLEUR-DE-LYS' RING, BY JAR
Details
A DIAMOND 'FLEUR-DE-LYS' RING, BY JAR
The five central rectangular-cut diamonds weighing 2.54, 0.94, 0.91, 0.90 and 0.88 carats within a pavé-set diamond fleur-de-lys surround to the pavé-set diamond scalloped hoop, mounted in silver and gold, made in 1999, ring size 4½
By JAR
The five central rectangular-cut diamonds weighing 2.54, 0.94, 0.91, 0.90 and 0.88 carats within a pavé-set diamond fleur-de-lys surround to the pavé-set diamond scalloped hoop, mounted in silver and gold, made in 1999, ring size 4½
By JAR