Marcks & Co. A fine, rare and unusual 18K gold, enamel, paste and diamond-set openface keyless lever Cabriolet watch, made for the Indian market

SIGNED MARCKS & CO. LTD., BOMBAY & POONA, NO. 34'210, CIRCA 1895

Details
Marcks & Co. A fine, rare and unusual 18K gold, enamel, paste and diamond-set openface keyless lever Cabriolet watch, made for the Indian market
Signed Marcks & Co. Ltd., Bombay & Poona, No. 34'210, circa 1895
Gilt-finished three quarter plate jewelled lever movement, bimetallic compensation balance, screwed gold chatons, gold cuvette, engraved scroll decorated silvered dial, Roman numerals, three-colour gold raised foliage decorated centre, subsidiary seconds, heavy circular inner case, translucent green enamel on engine-turned background to the reverse centred by rose-cut diamond-set and red foiled paste simulating ruby decoration, all swivelling within the engine-turned case band, outer case with polychrome champlevé enamel scroll decorated bezel and rim, reverse with rose-cut diamond-set and red foiled paste simulating ruby scroll decoration on translucent green enamel on engine-turned background, engine-turned bow, case, cuvette and movement stamped and numbered, dial signed
55.5 mm. diam.

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Dr. Nathalie Monbaron
Dr. Nathalie Monbaron

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Lot Essay

The present watch and its superbly decorated enamel case set with approximately 180 diamonds is a fine example for a timepiece made upon special order for an Indian Nobleman.

Such spectacular examples were very expensive, frequently exceeding 20,000 gold francs, a fortune at that time. The most magnificent watches could fetch much more: in 1867, Courvoisier of La-Chaux-de-Fonds sold a keyless hunter case watch in 18K gold, movement 21 lignes, 51 jewels, the case and chain set with diamonds and a large ruby, total weight 150 carats, to the Gaikwar of Baroda for the amount of 100,000 francs. It appears that the Nizam of Hyderabad ordered two watches, each estimated 250,000 francs, but as he never paid the requested guarantee of 100,000 francs, the watches were never made.

Another highly rare and unusual feature of the present watch is the design of the two case, conceived for the watch to be used either "open" and showing the dial or "closed" showing the back of the inner case, hence the designation "Cabriolet". The case and frame are of such outstandingly high quality, allowing the inner case to fit so perfectly into the outer case, that the two sides show virtually no difference, neither visible nor tangible, when used as hunter case.

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