A BUKHARA INSET GOLD HEADBAND

UZBEKISTAN, 19TH CENTURY

Details

A BUKHARA INSET GOLD HEADBAND
UZBEKISTAN, 19TH CENTURY
Composed of a band of twenty-one square plaques each with a raised central lozenge and decorated with inset beads, a similarly decorated cusped plaque above the central panel, the reverse of the plaques with repoussé arabesque decoration, the upper and lower edges with a narrow band of seed pearls, beneath the band are suspended thirty-nine drop-shape pendants with, each with a single inset stone, similar repoussé arabesque decoration on the reverse, strings of sea pearls and large pink and purple tourmalines and green beryls suspended below, silk straps with tassels at either end, in a green velvet fitted box with crimson silk lining
16¾in. (42.6cm.) long excluding straps

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Lot Essay

An Uzbek headband in a private Swiss collection which is attributed to a slightly later date is of very similar form, (Rachel Hasson, Later Islamic Jewellery, Jerusalem, 1987, No. 172, p. 121). While this is described as a headband, it has also been suggested that these were worn in pairs suspended on either side of the head connecting the temple to the ear. Our headband is very long which suggests it was worn as a single band across the forehead. A necklace exhibited at the L.A. Mayer Museum, with almost identical quatrefoil gold panels inset with hardstones and surrounded by a very similar seed pearl border, is attributed by Hasson to 19th Century Bukhara (Rachel Hasson, op.cit., Jerusalem, 1987, no. 150, p.109).

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