QING DYNASTY, SECOND HALF OF 19TH CENTURY

细节

A TURQUOISE KESI WOMAN'S VEST AND A TURQUOISE KESI WOMAN'S OVERCOAT
QING DYNASTY, SECOND HALF OF 19TH CENTURY
The sleeveless front-opening vest is decorated with shaped panels enclosing clusters of narcissus bulbs reserved on light lavender ground, within wide turquoise borders similarly decorated. The front-opening overcoat is woven with various types of chrysanthemum sprigs against a turquoise ground, with wide borders of further chrysanthemum designs on a light lavender ground. Both are applied with ruyi-shaped bands at the front, sides and back. All the decoration is picked out in different tones of gold threads. The hems are lined with a black-ground border of wan fret, with Western style buttons and a silk lining.
Vest: 29 in. (74 cm.) long; Overcoat: 82 in. (206 cm.) wide (2)

来源

Collection of Madame Christian Rowe Thornett, sold at F. R. Strange, Sydney, 31st May 1972, lot C69D and C69E.

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拍品专文

This group of semi-formal unofficial vests and overcoats can be associated with the private court of the Dowager Empress Cixi (1835-1908). Whether made to be worn by Cixi herself or by one of her many ladies in waiting, it reflects the refinements of a centuries-old imperial tradition where clothing and a rich variety of accoutrements were regarded as absolutely necessary to maintain the proper hierarchical order in society.

These floral designs are both decorative and metaphorical. Bringing beauty and fragrance in the midst of the cold season, the narcissus is an emblem of the New Year and good fortune for the twelve months ahead. Chrysanthemum is mentioned in such early classical literature as The Book of Odes, and a symbol of longevity and wealth as well as being the flower representing autumn.

QING DYNASTY, SECOND HALF OF 19TH CENTURY

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