Archival photographs courtesy of the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation Archives, Hillsborough, NJ Press Release I | Press Release II | Press Release III Contacts: Katherine Adler Bendetta Roux Tel: +1 212 636 2680 THE MAGNIFICENT JEWELRY COLLECTION OF DORIS DUKE TO BE SOLD AT CHRISTIE'S THIS SPRING Magnificent Jewels from The Doris Duke Collection Sold to Benefit the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation June 2, 2004 New York, NY - Christie's, the world's foremost jewelry auctioneer, will offer the magnificent jewelry collection of Doris Duke, one of the most fascinating women of the 20th century, on June 2. The exceptional collection of 150 pieces will be presented in a gala evening sale and will showcase glamorous jewelry of the 20th century with unrivalled examples of Belle Epoque and Art Deco jewelry, and rare pieces by Cartier, Verdura and David Webb. The exquisite jewelry pieces in this collection, which were acquired by Doris Duke and by her parents Nanaline and James Buchanan Duke, are a testament to the Duke family's passionate collecting, connoisseurship and genteel taste. The elegance and opulence of diamonds and the richness of emeralds and rubies combine to create a grand and intimate portrait of the Duke family. Doris Duke acquired her jewelry as she did all the objects in her collections- with devotion, enthusiasm and a perceptive eye. Her appreciation and taste in jewelry was constantly evolving, from her admiration of classical designs to her fascination with Indian motifs. Miss Duke chose the principal jewelry maisons, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as rising designers of the time, such as Paul Flato, Fulco di Verdura, Seaman Schepps and David Webb, to create one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces and refashion her older jewels into the current style. Heirloom Jewels The collection of heirloom jewelry from Nanaline and James B. Duke includes grand and formal pieces that epitomize the gaiety and optimism of the Gilded Age. A perfect example from the Belle Epoque period, literally defined as the beautiful era, is a diamond and pearl pendant necklace by Cartier, one of the world's leading jewelry houses at the time (estimate: $800,000-1,200,000). Mr. Duke supplied most of the large diamonds for the creation of this luxurious piece and purchased it at Cartier in Paris in 1908. The icy-white color scheme of the necklace is typical of the formal fashion of the period, and the classical symmetry and soft draping of diamonds embodies the lavish style of the time, which harked back to the designs of 18th-century European nobility. The piece, made of platinum, comprises four rows of delicate garland, which center upon a pendant that suspends a very rare natural pearl. An Art Deco pearl and diamond bandeau (estimate: $150,000-200,000) was purchased by Mr. Duke at Cartier in 1924 and demonstrates a shift in jewelry style. The geometric design of the piece reflects an Eastern European folk design and shows the continued influence of the Russian Imperial Court taste. A few years later Nanaline Duke acquired an Art Deco diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1927 (estimate: $350,000-500,000). Cartier was constantly inspired by the imagery and designs of ancient temples and pagodas and created this superb and striking design by combining an assortment of baguette-cut, marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamonds with these architectural elements. Nanaline Duke's exceptional taste and love for large gemstones are captured in a spectacular D- color rectangular-cut diamond ring of 19.72 carats (estimate: $800,000-1,200,000) by the legendary jewelry house Tiffany. This rare diamond, most certainly from Golconda, India, is exceptional both in its transparency and its elegant cut. A pair of Art Deco diamond and cultured pearl bracelets, circa 1920 (estimate: $12,000-15,000), comprising soft graduated strands of fine pearls, evoke the early 20th-century fashion for multi-strand pearl dog collars and bracelets, while the drum-shaped clasps of baguette diamonds introduce a modern flare. Miss Duke wore these bracelets together when she was photographed by the celebrated photographer Cecil Beaton in the 1930s. The Jewelry of Doris Duke When Doris Duke began buying her own jewelry in the 1930s, she preferred the important diamonds and precious gemstone jewelry that her mother and father had also treasured. Most of her jewelry during this time was monochromatic, with the exception of a few pieces of emerald jewelry. The color and quality of emeralds were of key importance to Miss Duke, who was particularly drawn to these gemstones because of their association with India. Miss Duke purchased one of her first pieces of emerald jewelry, an exquisite Art Deco emerald, pearl and diamond bracelet, circa 1934 (estimate: $250,000-350,000), at Cartier when she was 21. One of Cartier's greatest innovations in the Art Deco period was the incorporation of Indian influences and gemstones into jewelry. The centerpiece of this four-strand pearl bracelet is the bold, geometric plaque of richly saturated cabochon emeralds and is an extraordinary example of Cartier's interpretation of Mughal jewels. Miss Duke also commissioned Cartier to create an Art Deco emerald, cultured pearl and diamond clip brooch, circa 1934 (estimate: $40,000-60,000). The lotus-shaped clip brooch centers upon a cluster of cabochon emeralds. Both pieces Miss Duke owned before ever visiting India and kindled her passion for collecting Mughal jewelry. When Miss Duke made her first trip to India in 1935 with her husband James Cromwell she most likely purchased a magnificent two-strand emerald bead necklace (estimate: $300,000-400,000) and a single-strand emerald bead necklace (estimate: $150,000-200,000), both of exceptional quality with richly-colored beads that are beautifully displayed in simple and elegant strands. During the 1940s Miss Duke frequented the smaller jewelry salons, such as Flato, Verdura and Schepps in New York City, and often commissioned one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces and updated older pieces in her collection. From the 1940s onward, Miss Duke's taste turned to more unusual jewelry that became large in scale, exemplified by a pink topaz and diamond "flower twist" necklace by Verdura, circa 1966 (estimate: $30,000-50,000). The vibrant pink topaz drops that dramatically accentuate this sculptural piece capture Verdura's painterly love of color. An objet d' art by Verdura is a multi-gem and gold vanity case (estimate: $20,000-25,000) encrusted with vari-cut olivines, tourmalines, citrines and beryls. Doris Duke originally purchased the case with a plain gold lid and asked Verdura to add these colorful gems, resulting in a mosaic masterwork. Another distinctive, bold jewelry piece by David Webb whose elegance suited Doris Duke's taste and lifestyle is a spectacular Burmese ruby and cultured pearl necklace, circa 1969 (estimate: $80,000-120,000). The striking necklace, inspired by Eastern motifs, was a collaboration between Miss Duke and the jeweler, and is designed as a multi-strand ruby bead fringe accented by cultured pearls. A diamond tassel clip brooch, by David Webb (estimate: $180,000-220,000), features diamonds from a diamond bracelet given by James B. Duke to his wife, who then gave it to Doris Duke in December 1949. This dynamic floral piece bears similarities to jewelry designs of mid-19th century Parisian jeweler Massim, with its gracefully arched stem and leaves that dangle exquisite pear-shaped diamonds. Auction: Magnificent Jewels from The Doris Duke Collection Sold to Benefit the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation June 2 at 6 p.m. Viewing: Christie's Galleries at 20 Rockefeller Plaza May 21-June 1 Proceeds will benefit the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation (www.ddcf.org), which seeks to improve the quality of people's lives through grants supporting the performing arts, wildlife conservation, medical research and the prevention of child maltreatment, and through preservation of the cultural and environmental legacy of Doris Duke's properties. ### Images available on request Back to top