Four centuries of artful jewels, from Georges Fouquet to JAR, come together in an extraordinary collection

White diamonds, coloured gemstones and bold gold staples are cornerstones of all great jewellery collections, but for certain collectors with a flair for the avant-garde, drama and history are equally paramount. This December, Christie’s presents the collection of one such woman who coveted classical jewels as well as astonishing rarities in Jewels as Art: Magnificent Jewels from a Private Collection. Offered in Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 10 December in New York, this curated collection of more than 40 pieces spans the 17th through 20th centuries, celebrating designs distinctive to each iconic era.

‘The collection was built with the eye of someone who is incredibly disciplined and appreciative of the art historical aspect of jewellery,’ says Claibourne Poindexter, Senior Specialist, Jewellery, Christie’s Americas. ‘Not all jewellery can be considered art but when it can be, it almost always represents the best-of-the-best in jewellery design.’ As is often the case with masterpieces, several works in Jewels as Art hail from the collections of cultural luminaries, including the legendary songwriter and composer Cole Porter and the fashion editor and curator Diana Vreeland.

Ultimately this collector bought what she loved, whether an antique emerald intaglio ring or a rock crystal and diamond power cuff by Suzanne Belperron, a visionary designer that she collected in depth. What unites each period-defining piece is unabashed artistry.

Antique jewels: the rarest of the rare

Antique jewels in their original form have become increasingly rare, as they have often been reworked in subsequent centuries to adhere to the latest fashions. The collection’s nine antique lots that span circa 1770 to 1910 are remarkable surviving testaments to the artistry and techniques of these periods.

The earliest design in the collection, a George III period diamond flower brooch, is an extremely rare and unusually large piece that continues to make a statement almost 250 years later. Silver-topped gold jewels of the 19th century, set with large old-cut diamonds of various shapes and sizes, are also highlighted, including an impressive rose-cut diamond rivière necklace, which features an adjustable length.

One of the most unique lots on offer is the Assyrian revival bracelet, which like many jewels, reflects the prevailing interests of its day. Just as new archaeological findings in the early 1900s inspired the Egyptian revival style, Sir Austen Henry Layard’s 1848 publication, Nineveh and its Remains, may have been a catalyst for motifs inspired by ancient Assyria.

As the collection moves into the early 20th century, the works reflect the evolution of diamond cutting and jewellery design, displaying lighter mountings that begin to include silver topped with gold and settings made entirely of platinum.

Art Deco: streamlined and chic

A hundred years since their creation, Art Deco jewels of the 1920s and 1930s are perennial favourites known for their quality and striking geometries. Taking inspiration from modern technology, architecture and transportation, the jewellery of this period was pared down compared to the ornateness of Art Nouveau.

The innovation and steadfast search for new ideas led to inspired collaborations like that of Georges Fouquet and the artist André Léveillé. One of the finest jewels ever created by Fouquet resulted from this partnership: the multi-gem and enamel bangle bracelet, juxtaposing a mammoth cabochon emerald with rectangular orange topazes and diamonds.

Other hallmarks of the Art Deco period were experimentation with materials, such as lacquer and ebony wood, and convertibility. Cartier jewels from this era exemplify both characteristics and for this reason have always been highly coveted amongst collectors — Cole Porter owned the circa 1935 baguette-cut diamond and platinum ring by Cartier in the upcoming collection. Standouts from Jewels as Art include a Cartier sapphire and diamond cuff bracelet, from which the two elements can be detached and worn as brooches, as well as a carved coral bracelet with a seamless diamond clasp.

Raymond Templier was another talented jeweller whose designs rivalled the popular contemporary art styles during the Art Deco period. The interchangeable diamond and gold clip-brooches and combination cuff bracelet reflect the influence of the Machine Age while offering customisable looks to their wearer.

Suzanne Belperron: bold minimalism at its finest

‘Suzanne Belperron was one of the greatest jewellery designers of the 20th century, with a bold vision that was unlike anything that had been done before — or frankly anything that has been done since,’ says Poindexter. Jewels as Art features an astonishing 15 pieces by the French designer who proclaimed, ‘My style is my signature.’

Although never signed, Belperron’s jewels stand out for their sculptural silhouettes and brilliant mix of non-precious materials with priceless stones. Amongst her most recognisable designs is the ‘Tube’ bracelet, opulent in its use of stones but simply elegant when worn.

As one of the most important Belperron collections to ever come to auction, Jewels as Art includes three pieces from the jeweller’s personal collection. These include a whimsical multi-gem and diamond charm bracelet, a diamond cuff bracelet and a coloured diamond and smoky quartz ring.

In an industry dominated by male designers, the intrepid Belperron gained a star-studded following, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elsa Schiaparelli, Frank Sinatra and Diana Vreeland, who owned the shockingly modern circa 1934 rock crystal and diamond ‘Facetté’ cuff bracelet. Like the present private collector, Vreeland had an enduring passion for jewellery, viewing it as an essential element of personal expression and style.

Modern masterpieces: Bulgari and David Webb meet JAR and Hemmerle

Modern and contemporary jewels occupy a distinguished place in the collection alongside their antique and early 20th-century counterparts. Amongst the most instantly recognisable pieces are three examples of David Webb’s enamel bangle bracelets depicting various animals: a zebra, giraffe and cobra. Known for his imaginative designs, the New York jeweller debuted his first animal bracelet in 1957, and they remain enduring icons of the house today.

When considering the use of colour in jewellery, Bulgari is unmatched. The Italian house’s ‘Celtaura’ jewels use diamonds to enhance and accent, allowing the coloured gemstones and cultured pearls to take centre stage. The noteworthy ‘Kilim’ bracelet features a geometric pattern of emeralds, rubies and sapphires in a bed of cultured pearls, creating a stunning tapestry that falls across the wrist like a piece of fabric.

No art-forward jewellery collection would be complete without pieces by JAR. The coloured diamond and diamond ‘Hedgehog’ earrings are a feat of both engineering and execution, as beautifully made on the reverse as the front. They are complemented by five inversely-set round diamond rings in 18-karat blackened platinum, also by JAR.

In terms of 21st-century jewellery design, the Munich-based house Hemmerle is leading the way, balancing sleek statements with expertly crafted whimsy. Hemmerle’s ‘Harmony’ bangle bracelet is a smooth platinum hinged bracelet with two parallel engraved lines on either end.

In the collection Jewels as Art, artistry is not just a matter of exquisite surface detail but also refinement in proportion and scale. Even as tastes and styles have shifted over centuries, truly artistic jewels remain timeless.