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拍品專文
One of the most important collections ever to come to auction, Jewels as Art encapsulates one woman’s cohesive vision – to curate a collection of some of the greatest examples ever created of jewelry as wearable art.
Exceptional antique jewels from the late 18th through the 19th century display early and rare survivors of the jewelers’ art. The earliest piece in the collection, a George III period diamond flower brooch circa 1780 (Lot 45), is an extremely rare survivor of unusually large scale, and it continues to make a statement almost 250 years later.
Silver-topped gold jewels of the 19th century, set with large old-cut diamonds of various shapes and sizes, are highlighted including the impressive rose-cut diamond rivière necklace (Lot 47), with adjustable length, customizable to the mood and occasion of which it is worn.
Capturing the early height of the 20th century, this collection reflects some of the greatest Avant Garde Art Deco and Art Moderne jewels ever created. Cartier jewels are an integral part of this period, highly coveted by collectors for their incorporation of a variety of materials, geometric themes and use of color. Lot 60, an iconic bracelet composed of carved coral bead links with a seamless diamond clasp, is every bit as wearable today as when it was first created by Cartier nearly 100 years ago.
Further displaying incredible design combined with wearability, the clean lines of bracelets by master jewelers Raymond Templier and Georges Fouquet reflect the starkly changing styles of the time. Challenging the old world and embracing the new, these makers were heavily influenced by advancing technology in fields such as transportation and architecture. While often grand in scale and nature, jewels such as Lots 54 and 55 have a remarkable underlying simplicity that makes them all the more exciting to scholars, art historians and collectors globally.
Modern pieces are also very well represented in this exceptional collection, with jewels that meticulously highlight iconic characteristics of notable contemporary houses. Three instantly recognizable enamel bangle bracelets depicting various animals (Lots 76 - 78) can only be from the menagerie of whimsy reflected in the early designs of David Webb.
The jewels of Bulgari have a proud presence in the collection. Each set in yellow gold, buff top or cabochon gemstones of various shapes embody Bulgari’s unmatched use of color, both playful and sophisticated all at once. The ‘Kilim’ bracelet (Lot 85) is a truly rare example of design, color and precise manufacturing. The bracelet drapes across the wrist of the wearer like a piece of fabric, no doubt the inspiration for such an extraordinary jewel.
A collection that spans the centuries would not be complete without jewels by the incomparable Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known unanimously by his initials JAR. Each of his unique creations is as beautifully made on the reverse as it is at the front. This is evidenced by the colored diamond and diamond ‘Hedgehog’ earrings (Lot 86) which are a feat of both engineering and execution in 21st century jewelry design.
Last but certainly not least, and perhaps most meaningful to the collector herself, are 15 superb jewels by the outstanding Suzanne Belperron. Fearless in every way, Belperron paved her own path in a male dominated field, creating some of the most spectacular pieces of jewelry ever dreamed up. Her signature style caught the eye of many of the world’s most important royalty, movie stars, and other artists, many of whom became lifelong friends and clients. Given the bold and confident vision of the collector herself, it comes as no surprise that the jewels of Suzanne Belperron would hold a very special place in her heart.
The diamond ‘Tube’ bracelet (Lot 74), opulent in its use of stones but simply elegant when worn, was one of the first jewels created when Herz-Belperron reopened after the second world war and it remains instantly recognizable as one of the most important bracelets ever produced.
Contrary to this bracelet, Belperron focused on designing casual and wearable jewels that women would truly enjoy. A whimsical multi-colored gem charm bracelet (Lot 61) is one of three jewels offered originally from the designer’s personal collection. The simplicity of the bracelet’s design paired with the ingenuity and creative vision of Belperron creates a highly wearable and globally appealing piece of art.
Christie’s is truly honored to be working with this exceptional and astute woman to curate a selection from her extraordinary collection to offer to the public, with the hope that a new generation of collectors will enjoy these jewels and wear them often and with love, as she so frequently did.
Exceptional antique jewels from the late 18th through the 19th century display early and rare survivors of the jewelers’ art. The earliest piece in the collection, a George III period diamond flower brooch circa 1780 (Lot 45), is an extremely rare survivor of unusually large scale, and it continues to make a statement almost 250 years later.
Silver-topped gold jewels of the 19th century, set with large old-cut diamonds of various shapes and sizes, are highlighted including the impressive rose-cut diamond rivière necklace (Lot 47), with adjustable length, customizable to the mood and occasion of which it is worn.
Capturing the early height of the 20th century, this collection reflects some of the greatest Avant Garde Art Deco and Art Moderne jewels ever created. Cartier jewels are an integral part of this period, highly coveted by collectors for their incorporation of a variety of materials, geometric themes and use of color. Lot 60, an iconic bracelet composed of carved coral bead links with a seamless diamond clasp, is every bit as wearable today as when it was first created by Cartier nearly 100 years ago.
Further displaying incredible design combined with wearability, the clean lines of bracelets by master jewelers Raymond Templier and Georges Fouquet reflect the starkly changing styles of the time. Challenging the old world and embracing the new, these makers were heavily influenced by advancing technology in fields such as transportation and architecture. While often grand in scale and nature, jewels such as Lots 54 and 55 have a remarkable underlying simplicity that makes them all the more exciting to scholars, art historians and collectors globally.
Modern pieces are also very well represented in this exceptional collection, with jewels that meticulously highlight iconic characteristics of notable contemporary houses. Three instantly recognizable enamel bangle bracelets depicting various animals (Lots 76 - 78) can only be from the menagerie of whimsy reflected in the early designs of David Webb.
The jewels of Bulgari have a proud presence in the collection. Each set in yellow gold, buff top or cabochon gemstones of various shapes embody Bulgari’s unmatched use of color, both playful and sophisticated all at once. The ‘Kilim’ bracelet (Lot 85) is a truly rare example of design, color and precise manufacturing. The bracelet drapes across the wrist of the wearer like a piece of fabric, no doubt the inspiration for such an extraordinary jewel.
A collection that spans the centuries would not be complete without jewels by the incomparable Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known unanimously by his initials JAR. Each of his unique creations is as beautifully made on the reverse as it is at the front. This is evidenced by the colored diamond and diamond ‘Hedgehog’ earrings (Lot 86) which are a feat of both engineering and execution in 21st century jewelry design.
Last but certainly not least, and perhaps most meaningful to the collector herself, are 15 superb jewels by the outstanding Suzanne Belperron. Fearless in every way, Belperron paved her own path in a male dominated field, creating some of the most spectacular pieces of jewelry ever dreamed up. Her signature style caught the eye of many of the world’s most important royalty, movie stars, and other artists, many of whom became lifelong friends and clients. Given the bold and confident vision of the collector herself, it comes as no surprise that the jewels of Suzanne Belperron would hold a very special place in her heart.
The diamond ‘Tube’ bracelet (Lot 74), opulent in its use of stones but simply elegant when worn, was one of the first jewels created when Herz-Belperron reopened after the second world war and it remains instantly recognizable as one of the most important bracelets ever produced.
Contrary to this bracelet, Belperron focused on designing casual and wearable jewels that women would truly enjoy. A whimsical multi-colored gem charm bracelet (Lot 61) is one of three jewels offered originally from the designer’s personal collection. The simplicity of the bracelet’s design paired with the ingenuity and creative vision of Belperron creates a highly wearable and globally appealing piece of art.
Christie’s is truly honored to be working with this exceptional and astute woman to curate a selection from her extraordinary collection to offer to the public, with the hope that a new generation of collectors will enjoy these jewels and wear them often and with love, as she so frequently did.