Magnificent Jewels: from Bolin to Boucheron, Bulgari to Belperron

Spanning the late 19th century to the 21st century, the pieces offered for sale in Magnificent Jewels on 14 May 2025 at Christie’s in Geneva include dazzling white diamonds, rare coloured gemstones, vintage signed jewels with notable provenance, and an important private collection of pieces by the visionary designer Joel Arthur Rosenthal, better known as JAR.

The sale features unique, fresh-to-market jewels as well as fine examples by renowned makers such as Fabergé, Bulgari, Cartier, Graff and Harry Winston. ‘It’s a great opportunity for collectors to acquire exceptional pieces suffused with history and style,’ says Angela Berden, a senior specialist in the Jewellery department at Christie’s in Geneva.

Of the vintage signed jewels, Berden is particularly taken by an early-20th-century sapphire and diamond necklace by Bolin. Founded in the late 18th century by Andreas Römpler, Bolin is best known for its exquisite craftsmanship and designs combining elegance and innovation. By the early 20th century, it had established itself as one of Russia’s leading jewellers, rivalling Fabergé, and was the official supplier to the imperial court. Following the revolution of 1917, the company’s assets were seized. Bolin was later re-established in Sweden, where it continues to serve the Swedish royal family today.

It is possible that the sapphire and diamond necklace was commissioned from Bolin as a gift for the Grand Duchess Alexandra of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who married Germany’s Friedrich Franz IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, on 7 June 1904. ‘The scratched inventory number on the necklace is consistent with the numbering used by Bolin in 1904,’ explains Berden, adding that the piece is also stamped with the mark of Bolin master jeweller Vasily Finikov.

The necklace has remained in the same family for more than a century, and will be offered at auction for the first time in May. ‘It is a beautiful example of period jewellery with fantastic provenance,’ says the specialist. ‘The fact that it is in excellent condition and fresh to market only adds to its desirability.’

Also noteworthy is a late-19th-century Fabergé diamond necklace, featuring a detachable pendant that can be converted into a brooch. The necklace was designed by August Holmström, Fabergé’s chief jeweller for 46 years, who oversaw the production of the house’s most important jewellery pieces.

‘When you think of Fabergé, you immediately think of jewelled enamelled objects rather than all-diamond jewellery,’ says Berden. ‘To see a Fabergé necklace of this importance, with such a sophisticated design, in its original fitted wooden box — and with this quantity of diamonds — is exceptionally rare on the market.’

Then there is the necklace’s history. ‘Fabergé’s original design for the necklace still exists, and now resides in an album of jewellery drawings in the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg,’ says Berden. In 2022, the necklace was loaned to the V&A’s blockbuster exhibition Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution — further testament to its historical significance.

As for important coloured stones, Berden highlights a ‘Ballerina’ ring by Boucheron, which features a fancy deep-blue emerald-cut diamond of 6.24 carats, surrounded by tapered baguette-cut diamonds mounted in a scalloped wave pattern. ‘The design, which was inspired by the shape of a ballerina’s tutu, was a modern variation of the classic cluster design,’ says Berden. ‘It reflects light beautifully, creating a spectacular display of brilliance and flair.’

By the mid-1950s, the ‘Ballerina’ design had been adopted by celebrated houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Boucheron. What makes this example so striking is the spectacular coloured diamond at its centre. ‘It is extraordinary to see a blue diamond of this size and shape with such a strong, intense deep-blue colour,’ says Berden. ‘We expect strong interest from seasoned jewellery collectors around the world.’

Another notable highlight is a magnificent ring with a Burmese ruby of 10.17 carats that is classified as ‘Pigeon Blood’ red. Burmese rubies have long been considered the finest in the world, thanks to their deep, vibrant colour and high clarity. But only those of exceptional saturation and natural red fluorescence can be classified as Pigeon Blood red. Prized by collectors, these rubies command higher prices per carat than any other coloured stone at auction.

‘To find a Burmese ruby of this size with Pigeon Blood grading, and one that is so clean and crisp, with such a beautiful, well-saturated colour, is cause for celebration,’ says Berden.

The sale also includes important signed pieces dating from the mid-to-late 20th century, from renowned houses such as Bulgari, Harry Winston, Cartier and Graff. Among the highlights is a blue diamond and diamond en tremblant brooch by Bulgari from the 1960s. Inspired by a traditional 19th-century French technique, Bulgari’s en tremblant brooches of floral design, featuring diamonds on flexible mounts, flutter and shimmer with every movement, thanks to tiny spring mechanisms behind the petals.

The elegant design was an instant hit with royals, aristocrats and film stars — of both Hollywood and Cinecittà — from the late 1950s to the mid-1960s. Ingrid Bergman wore one on screen in The Visit (1964), while Liz Taylor owned a selection of exceptional diamond and platinum examples. Among them was a diamond and coloured diamond Bulgari brooch from 1959, which sold for $1,142,500 — more than triple the low estimate — in 2011 at Christie’s in New York.

‘While different varieties of en tremblant brooches were made in the 1950s and 1960s,’ says Berden, ‘an example with the combination of blue and white diamonds is rarely seen on the market.’

Among the treasures offered from ‘A Bouquet of Gems’, one of the largest and most important private collections of works by JAR ever to come to market, is a multi-gem chain necklace, which was exhibited in JAR’s retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013-14. Acquired directly from JAR by the present owner, it comprises rare and unconventional coloured stones, including sapphires, diamonds, spinels, peridots, tourmalines and garnets, mounted on an 18k rose gold and blackened silver base using JAR’s signature pavé technique.

JAR’s innovative approach involves setting small gemstones closely together to minimise the visibility of the metal underneath, resulting in a continuous surface of jewels that catches and reflects the light. This brings sparkle and brilliance to the piece, significantly enhancing its visual impact.

‘The design of this necklace exemplifies JAR’s ability to achieve subtle gradations of colour — a hallmark of JAR pieces — while also illustrating his precision, artistry and eye for balanced compositions,’ says Berden.

Other highlights include a Suzanne Belperron emerald and enamel ‘Vague’ bangle dating from the mid-1950s and a late-19th-century gold ring set with a fine Burmese ruby, diamond and natural black pearl — a rare survival of its time. Also featured in the sale are a JAR coral, pink opal and diamond sautoir and a set of ‘Roi Soleil’ jewellery comprising a necklace and a pair of earrings designed by Victoire de Castellane for Dior.

Magnificent Jewels takes place at Christie’s in Geneva on 14 May 2025, alongside Jewels Online: The Geneva Edit (live for bidding 9-20 May). Both sales will be on view 9-14 May at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Geneva. Explore Luxury at Christie’s