Highlights of Magnificent Jewels in Geneva: from Cartier’s animal-inspired creations to beautifully crafted pieces by JAR

Offered for sale in Magnificent Jewels on 13 May 2026 at Christie’s in Geneva is a curated selection of historic and modern jewellery, as well as important signed examples by renowned makers such as Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and JAR. There is also an exceptional group of Art Deco jewels from Cartier and Boucheron. ‘It’s a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire museum-quality pieces that embody the pinnacle of early-20th-century design,’ says Angela Berden, Jewellery specialist and head of sale at Christie’s in Geneva. Here, she selects her highlights from the sale.

A Cartier diamond tiara

Cartier was founded by Louis-François Cartier in Paris in 1847, but it was his three grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the company’s reputation around the world. This Cartier Art Deco diamond tiara, with fountain-shaped geometric arches, was created in the Renault workshop around 1920.

‘It is a quintessential example of the refined, elegant and timeless designs of the Art Deco period — the golden age of Cartier design and craftsmanship,’ says Angela Berden. ‘To find an Art Deco tiara at auction today is very unusual, but to find one signed by Cartier that is as delicate and wearable as this one is exceptionally rare.’

A Cartier emerald, pearl and diamond sautoir

The sautoir, which incorporates a carved 86.71-carat emerald depicting the Hindu deities Shiva and Parvati, was created after one of Jacques Cartier’s numerous trips to India, where he encountered exceptional gemstones often carved in the style favoured by Hindu or Mughal tradition. ‘What Cartier saw in India fundamentally expanded the maison’s visual vocabulary, enabling traditional Indian colour and carving to be reinterpreted through the modern European lens of the period,’ says Berden.

A Boucheron ruby, emerald, onyx and diamond necklace

Another standout Art Deco lot is this Boucheron ruby, emerald, onyx and diamond necklace created around 1925. It comprises four detachable elements, allowing it to be worn as two bracelets and a choker, and has an intricate rose motif — an important decorative theme in early-20th-century Paris, which was most closely associated with the couturier Paul Poiret and the designer and illustrator Paul Iribe: it was Iribe who created Poiret’s signature rose motif around 1908-09.

‘Defined by its sculptural elegance, exquisite craftsmanship and geometric form, this is one of the most spectacular Art Deco jewels ever created by Boucheron,’ says Berden. ‘It is unequivocally avant‑garde in its design, as evidenced by the innovative way it can be worn.’

Boucheron presented the necklace at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, which is widely considered the birthplace of Art Deco. ‘The roses on the necklace recall those conceived by Iribe for Poiret, highlighting the dialogue between jewellery, fashion and the decorative arts in Paris between the two World Wars,’ says Berden.

A Chaumet 22.28-carat Kashmir sapphire ring

‘Kashmir sapphires are among the rarest and most sought-after treasures in the world,’ says Berden, who explains that the majority of top-quality Kashmir sapphires were unearthed in the ‘Old Mine’ in the Zanskar Range of the north-western Himalayas between 1882 and 1887. After 1888, the ‘Old Mine’ was largely depleted, and the miners moved down to the valley floor, where the sapphires were of lesser quality.

In 1927, the mines were officially closed, capping the supply of Kashmir sapphires forever. Their desirability stems from their rarity and the distinctive deep ‘velvety’ blue colour that appears luminous in any light. ‘This Chaumet ring is a beautiful example, so we expect it to attract a lot of attention,’ says Berden.

Cartier animal jewels

The sale also includes a selection of Cartier animal jewels, among them a pair of late-20th-century Cartier ‘Tiger’ cuffs. The ‘big cat’ motif first appeared in Cartier’s design vocabulary in 1914 by means of an onyx-spotted panther-pattern wristwatch created by the designer Charles Jacqueau. It was Jeanne Toussaint, however, who transformed it into a 20th-century icon.

Toussaint — nicknamed ‘The Panther’ by Louis Cartier, in reference to the panther-skin rugs that decorated her apartment — worked with the designer Peter Lemarchand to create a wide array of two- and three-dimensional ‘big cat’ jewels. By the late 1940s, these jewels, which had expanded to incorporate designs featuring the tiger as well as the panther, were must-have accessories for royals, A-listers and style icons, including Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes and Nina Dyer. The motif has been reimagined many times since, as in this striking pair of Tiger cuffs set with onyx, diamonds and coloured diamonds.

Cartier also took inspiration from other exotic animals, including elephants, zebras and flamingos. In 1940, Toussaint unveiled the flamingo brooch, a unique commission for the Duchess of Windsor. A vivid expression of colour and craftsmanship, it may have been inspired by the duchess’s life in the Bahamas, where the flamingo is native. Following the sale of her jewellery collection in 1987, which prompted renewed interest in the design, Cartier produced a handful of flamingo brooches on a bespoke basis for private clients. ‘This brooch is one of those artistic reproductions,’ says Berden. ‘The articulated feet and finely contoured, colourful feathers lend the piece a remarkable sense of movement and sophistication.’

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond ear clips

‘There is something so striking about jewels by JAR,’ says the specialist. ‘The colours are subtle yet unexpected, forming harmonies and tonal rainbows one would never anticipate.’ This pair of ear clips comprises diamonds and oval-shaped spinels of violet and purple hues set in an 18-carat red-gold and silver architectural base.

In JAR jewels, the gemstones are often cut with fewer, larger facets, resulting in a continuous surface of jewels that catches and reflects the light. ‘These ear clips are typical of JAR’s creativity and craftsmanship, as well as his daring way with colour and proportion,’ says Berden.

Magnificent Jewels is on view 8-13 May 2026 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Geneva. Jewels Online is live for bidding 7-19 May. Explore the Geneva Luxury Week sales